Finnish Lapland is changing quickly, and where travelers stay increasingly affects how they experience the region. Away from the largest resort centers, smaller and more remote bases offer an alternative to fixed schedules and crowded excursions, trading convenience for flexibility, darker skies and the ability to respond quickly when conditions change.
Finnish Lapland now serves over a million winter guests, but fewer crowds might be the only way to see what they came for. Photo credit: Food Drink Life.
That difference matters in a place where winter travel depends on darkness, weather and timing, none of which can be scheduled in advance. In high-traffic resort areas built to handle large visitor volumes, activities are often planned days ahead. Outside those areas, travel tends to operate with fewer fixed departures and smaller groups.
Lapland, Finland’s northernmost region above the Arctic Circle, has seen winter tourism grow rapidly. Finavia said Rovaniemi Airport served 1.1 million passengers in 2025, exceeding 1 million for the first time, while Kittilä Airport handled 445,911 travelers. Visit Finland reported a 12% increase in nights spent by foreign visitors in hotels and other paid accommodation during the winter high season from December through February. Much of that growth has been concentrated around established resort destinations.
A smaller base that can move fast
For travelers willing to stay beyond the main resort corridors, the experience can differ significantly. Near the village of Raattama, close to the Swedish border, Kelo Resort operates with 32 rooms, allowing outings to run with small groups and adjust plans as conditions change. On our Northern Lights snowmobile outing, there were only four of us on the excursion.
Most visitors arrive via Kittilä Airport, the closest airport to the Levi area, before continuing by road. The drive to Kelo Resort takes about 90 minutes. The airport is compact, arrival lines move quickly and private transfers can depart shortly after landing.
While we were still traveling from the airport, the resort manager sent a message noting favorable conditions and offering a choice between having dinner first or heading out immediately. Choosing the latter meant being on a snowmobile within about 45 minutes of arrival, crossing a frozen lake as the lights appeared overhead. That kind of last-minute adjustment is more difficult in larger resorts, where excursions typically run at set departure times and are booked well in advance.
Northern Lights season and timing
Visit Finland says the Northern Lights are most visible in northern Finland from late August through April, when nights are dark enough. Autumn, winter and early spring offer the best conditions. At Kelo, guests can use a free aurora alert app that sends notifications when activity is likely, including overnight.
Cold-weather reality and what to wear
Aurora alerts can require heading outdoors with little notice, and cold becomes a safety concern during extended periods outside. Most excursions provide heavy outerwear, including thermal overalls and boots. Guests are responsible for base layers worn closest to the skin, such as thermal tops, warm socks and a hat. Overnight alerts can mean stepping into sub-zero temperatures quickly, making preparation essential. When I visited, temperatures dropped to as low as minus 42 degrees Celsius.
The trade-off
This part of Lapland is not suited to a tightly scheduled itinerary. Travelers who want guaranteed departure times, multiple dining options and nightlife are better served by large resort centers. Those who prioritize darker skies, fewer fixed schedules and smaller group logistics may prefer staying away from the busiest tourist corridors.
The Northern Lights are not guaranteed anywhere. But more remote bases offer reduced artificial light and greater flexibility, which can improve the chances of being outside when conditions align. For travelers willing to trade convenience for adaptability, that distinction can matter.
Mandy is a luxury travel, fine dining and bucket-list-adventure journalist with expert insight from 46 countries. She uncovers unforgettable experiences around the world and brings them to life through immersive storytelling that blends indulgence, culture and discovery, and shares them with a global audience as co-founder of Food Drink Life. Her articles appear on MSN and through the Associated Press wire in major U.S. outlets, including NBC, the Daily News, Boston Herald, the Chicago Sun-Times and many more.
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